Installationsguide för Gräsarmering

31 Jul 2026

Reinforced grass is the same groundwork as a gravel installation with one important difference: you are building a growing medium as well as a load-bearing surface, and those two goals pull against each other. Anything that compacts well carries load well and grows grass badly.

The grid resolves the conflict. It carries the load through its structure and transfers it to the sub-base, leaving the material inside the cells uncompacted so roots can establish. Which means the fill inside the cells is the part most worth getting right.

Steg för steg

Hur man installerar det

Plan around the growing season
Install in spring or early autumn so the grass has a season to establish before it takes traffic or a hard frost. A grass surface installed in November and driven on in December will not knit, and you will be repairing it in spring.
Excavate to your total depth
Sub-base depth plus grid depth. For a domestic grass drive with a 40mm grid that is typically 80mm plus 40mm, so 120mm. Unlike a gravel build there is no blinding layer above the grid: the fill sits flush.
Lay the geotextile and sub-base
Same as any installation: woven geotextile lapped 300mm, then MOT Type 1 in compacted layers of no more than 75mm. Free draining matters even more here, because saturated ground kills grass as effectively as traffic does.
Blind and screed
A thin grit sand blinding, screeded level. Grass shows unevenness far more obviously than gravel does, so this step earns its time back.
Lay the grids
Push-fit across the area from a straight edge, cutting to fit with a jigsaw. Check for square as you go.
Mix your rootzone
This is the step that decides whether the grass lives. Use roughly 70% sharp sand to 30% screened topsoil. Pure topsoil is the classic mistake: it compacts under traffic, holds water, and suffocates the roots within a season. The sand is what keeps the structure open.
Fill the cells
Work the rootzone into every cell and brush it level with the cell walls. Do not overfill. Material sitting above the cell walls is unconfined and will be pushed out by the first vehicle.
Seed or turf
Seed with a hard-wearing amenity mix at the rate on the bag and rake in lightly. If turfing, fill the cells slightly below level so the turf sits flush rather than proud, and butt the joints tightly.
Water and keep off it
Water thoroughly and keep watering through establishment. Allow around eight weeks before light occasional use and a full growing season before regular traffic. This is the hardest instruction to follow and the most important one.

Vanliga frågor

Will the grid be visible?

No. Once established, the grid sits below the leaf canopy and is effectively invisible. It is only visible in the weeks immediately after installation.

Can I mow it?

Yes, with the mower set no lower than 40mm. Cutting shorter stresses the sward exactly where it is already under traffic pressure.

What if the grass wears in the wheel tracks?

Overseed in spring. Wheel tracks take the most traffic and will always be the first to thin. This is normal maintenance, not a failure.

Can I use it for a fully grassed car park?

Yes, and it is one of the most common commercial uses. Increase the sub-base depth for circulation routes, which take far more traffic than the bays.

Does it work in shade?

Grass in deep shade struggles whether it is reinforced or not. In heavily shaded areas consider a gravel fill instead: the grid performs the same, only the infill changes.

Installationsguide för Gräsarmering

Hur man installerar det

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